Consider adding an alarm to your ejector tank, if one is not already installed, so that when issues arise, they can be addressed immediately. Even wipes that are advertised as flushable could get stuck in the pump and create issues in your tank. First, avoid flushing anything down the toilet other than waste and toilet paper. Maintaining your ejector system is much easier than you may think, and certainly better than repairing a broken pump. How to Maintain Your Ejector Tank and Pump The tank then fills beyond capacity, pushing waste back up into your drains, creating foul odors, and sometimes producing odd noises, as the pump’s motor attempts to turn it. This happens when solids make their way into the pump and the flow of waste stops. One main problem the ejector system may face is clogs in the pump. While the entire ejector system performs an important task inside your home, problems can arise. As the water level of the tank rises, a float switch triggers the pump to push water up, against the flow of gravity, to the main line. ![]() When you flush the toilet or run the washing machine, wastewater flows into the ejector tank. You’ll commonly find them in basements, where bathrooms or laundry rooms may be below the main sewer line, often on the first floor. Other than a battery backup in case of power failure and a high water alarm in case of pump/switch failure, is there any way to make these systems safer? Thanks.Put simply, an ejector system is used to pump wastewater up to the main sewer line. This thing seems like an accident waiting to happen. I have had to go into the sewer ejection system more times than I can count to adjust, fix, replace one thing or another and the system is only 11 years old. While doing this job I examined the check valve because things didn't sound right (what does it mean when you know there might be a problem with your sewer ejection system because it doesn't "sound" right?) and discovered that the flap had been torn off and was just bouncing around within the valve. ![]() Once I removed the crud it seemed to work okay, although I will have to do more testing. There was "crud" on the float and, while the float did rise with the water level, it would not trigger the pump. The reason for my question is because I have had to remove the sealed cover, and go back in to correct an issue with the float not triggering the pump.again. I am now worried that the flap is unable to take the force of the water being discharged. The one that recently failed was from Lowes and cost about $60? It was installed vertically on the ejection pipe by the original plumber. Are these things prone to failing, or can I purchase a better one. ![]() The circular flap was torn off from the rubber "hinge" on the inside of the check valve. Recently the pump would not start because the float ball for the pump was caked with scum and it would not rise to the correct "angle" to trigger the pump.Īlso the check valve has failed and it was less than 2 years old. The sewage pit gets gummed up with, what I am assuming, is soap scum from the laundry and shower. The bathroom is not used for solid waste (no #2), but is used for liquid waste (yes #1). Is there a way to prevent the build-up of soap scum for a sewage ejector pit? Currently the sewage ejector system services the laundry room and a bathroom located in the basement.
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